Inspired by Chef Nena Ismirnoglou
(PHOTO: Vassilis Stenos)
If you are ever in Athens with some time to spare for a cab ride north to Kifissia (about 30 minutes from downtown), make it a point to try the restaurant Gefseis me Onomasia Proelefsis. OK, that’s a mouthful! It means “Appellation of Origin Flavors.” The food is great and the venue, an old house built during the reign of King Otto in Greece, is a throwback to another, grander era. The rooms are filled with lovely antiques, the wine cellar is visible through a glass-covered ceiling, and the garden, if you are there in spring, summer, or early fall, is a lush oasis. The food is elegant Greek mama fare, produced by one of the few women chefs in Greece, Nena Ismirnoglou. The recipe that follows is inspired by one of her dishes.